Monday, 12 April 2010
Dress it up
This is a fashion piece I wrote for the Vogue young writers' competition in 2008.
In recent years the fashion experts say, that to be in tune with the zeitgeist you really have to look like a boy. Models, forget how your genes and the seasons have turned you out. Flatten your chest, slouch and wear your boyfriend’s jeans. Then the likes of Balenciaga, MaxMara and Luella will say ‘Androgyny is in’ and use you on their catwalks. The shapeless waif look of the 1920’s threatens, but instead of bandaging our chests and sporting beaded fringe we’re encouraged to wear the sexy granddad shirt or the saucy trilby.
But me, I'm on strike, girl I was born, girl I am. Cavali, Galiano and Marchesa at least, I thank you. Designers who believe that this is still the age of the dress, all flirty and female. I' m a Valentino girl, curvaceous and proud of it, 'I don't think any man in the world wants to go out with a woman dressed like a boy?' Valentino asks. What he says is true, if not a little misogynist. Let’s face it - his dresses are cut for the size zero beauties of this world.
After a tempestuous writer’s strike, the Oscars were delivered, in true Hollywood style. The award season came and went – those little statues and statuettes found loving homes - but the fashion hits and misses will outlive even the teariest acceptance speech. Galliano, Valentino and Marchesa revolutionised traditional Oscar attire with their LRD – Little red dresses, on Heidi Klum, Mylie Cyrus and Anne Hathaway, while black dresses were panned by fashion critics as lack lustre.
I'm particularly excited to have seen Jil Sander's liquid silver maxi creation pictured on the oh so mini Nicole Richie at the opening of DCMA Collective's flagship store March 14th - just to prove that us vertically challenged petites can pull off the full length gown too. My fave fashion moment for the iconic dress has got to be the decadent 1950's. It was in September of 1952, when Vogue gave birth to the concept of the LBD, 'The little black dress, deceptively simple, is the core of every collection.'
Voluptuous figures were hugged in all the right places in tussore dresses - skin colour was flattered by baby blue and blond. I don't think anyone will forget the flirty flash of Marilyn's knickers, when she sported that flapping white halter dress. Those were the days when women looked up happily to men and men looked down protectively and romantically on women. (I think and hope: allow me my dreams.)
If any designer has the power to recreate such a fashion moment, it must surely be Marchesa. Their stunning eveningwear, inspired by vintage and Asian flavours, screams opulent, high fashion princess – is there any other? Their Resort collection boasts Grecian and bateau necklines, full tulle skirts and beautiful organza. Cascading fabrics dominate the collection in stunning ivory, jade, gold and fuchsia. They even provide plush party dresses with their notte by Marchesa collection – short and sweet with plenty of ruffles.
But, the dress for this summer is all about the tea. Paisley, dotty or floral, it all works. High Street retailers are doing this the best at the moment - Topshop appear to be the front-runners - with Kate Moss's help - but Oasis must surely be given a mention. Sara Berman's new collection at ASOS is causing a stir with her cute and affordable tea dresses.
Mademoiselle Coco Chanel once said, 'Never do anything by halves.' I believe that this must be said of our fashion forward wardrobe. Dressing for a sparkling soiree or on the European beaches this summer, don't do your outfit in halves; wear the dress.
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